Camino Day 30: Palas de Rei to Salceda – The Second to Last

Since Triple P and I were the only pilgrims in our room, we decided to sleep in (for once). Plus, we didn’t have to be out of the hostel until 9h. We took our time waking up, getting ready, eating breakfast, and repacking our sacks to carry all of our leftover groceries. Considering we had planned to walk 45 km, getting a late start may not have been the wisest decision. We finally made out way out the door at almost 9h, the latest of any day. Not only did we make it out of the door late, but we thought it would be a great idea to pick wild blackberries throughout the day and make a dessert that night in our hostel as a celebration before Santiago. Basically, we weren’t in a hurry to get wherever it was we decided to stop.

I can’t say our walk was particularly exciting, just long. We had fun chatting away, as in other days, taking our time to pick and eat blackberries. Triple P had the genius idea of making mug cakes. As we walked, I realized how bad my feet were hurting. Over the last few days, my blisters have gotten worse; I have large, painful blisters on both of my pinkie toes, and every day I swear I can feel new ones starting along my heel or big toe. Right before lunch time, we ran into Old Man River! Yes! He was walking along with someone else, and we quickly said hello before continuing on our way. I do feel bad that we weren’t more friendly with him, but we both did find him a bit annoying. I heard Old Man River explain to his new companion that the day he walked with us he tried to do as we did and run the downhills, but he hurt himself. He was commenting saying that we were going to injure ourselves. Running the downhills is technically better for your knees, when done properly, but this man was older and heavy set, so I can see why running for him would not be a good idea. We didn’t tell him to run. It is not our fault if he chose to run anyway.

I mentioned this to Triple P and it just so happened we were approaching a downhill. Triple P took off running and pretended to hurt himself halfway through the descent. Unfortunately, he didn’t warn me beforehand, so I had a mini heart attack when I saw his knee “give out.” From a distance I hear Old Man Yelling, “you see?! I told you that you would get  hurt and you shouldn’t run the down hills!”

Shortly after that we decided to break for lunch. Old Man River saw us eating at a restaurant and went out of his way to lecture us about running the downhills. After we left, all we could do was laugh. Triple P and I had quite a feast, in attempts to lighten our sacks. Well, just my sack. Triple P’s back is extremely heavy all the time, while I have been diligent about keeping my sack at 6-7 kg. However, today I’m certain I was hovering at around 8 kg.

I’ve developed an obsession with cows in Galicia. This is our second cow crossing encounter and I always want to reach out and pet one. However, I’m afraid the cow might freak out and bite me, or that the farmer will yell at me.

Starting after lunch was near impossible with the blisters on my feet. I basically have to limp for a good kilometer or so, until essentially I lose feeling in my pinkie toes and I can start walking normally. It isn’t fun. Actually, it’s quite painful. I’m thankful that I only have a few days of this madness because the pain is becoming unbearable. Even a short break to relieve myself results in this “starting over.”

We walked later than any other day, and as we approached Salceda, 5 km from our target destination I had to stop. I was on the verge of tears. I couldn’t imagine walking 5 more kilometers, I had barely motivated myself to walk the last 5 km. Plus, it was starting to get late, near 18 h. I was paranoid about walking in the dark. I needed a break. I needed to stop, and Triple P kindly acquiesced.

Restaurant with a wall of beer bottles. We passed this place before Salceda. There were a few pilgrims drinking, and if it were earlier in the day, I would have loved to join them. I feel like our late start made the end of our day very desolate.

We stopped in Salceda, which isn’t even a town really. Just a random house converted to pilgrim’s hostel with a restaurant next door. There was a microwave and a few kitchen tables. It was late, cold, and rainy so I paid for Triple P and I to use the machines. Except, the clothes didn’t really dry. This hostel owner had done the camino 5 times or so, averaging about 2 weeks each time (he’s crazy and walked 50 km a day). He explained to us that he was able to build this hostel with his earnings from the Camino. I think he was under the impression that he was running a luxury hostel, but I didn’t consider it to be one. It was damp inside, and stinky. It smelled like mold, especially in the bedrooms. It was one of my least favorite places I’ve stayed. I almost wish we had walked the last 5 km.

Triple P and I went to dinner, then sat in the common room talking, while I cured my blisters for the first time. After popping the first one, I wasn’t as disgusted by it and was able to do the job. Before we knew it, it was 23h and time for bed. We plan on waking up as early as possible so that we could enjoy our day in Santiago tomorrow.

Day 30: 40 km
To Santiago de Compostela: 24 km

Camino Day 29: Ferreiros to Palas de Rei – The Galician Trail

Today has been one of my favorite days thus far. Triple P and I hit the road probably at around 7h45 after eating the breakfast of champions (I mean Chocapics, of course).

We made it to Portomarin early and didn’t wait for the church to open so we could visit. We snapped some photos and went on our way. Unfortunately, we made a wrong turn somewhere and probably walked close to 45 minutes on the wrong path (including the time it took us to make it back and find the Camino). Our mistake was that we followed the bike path that was indicated directly in front of us and missed the pedestrian sign that was slightly behind us. It was the first time I’ve gotten lost on the Camino and missed an indication. I knew we wasted a lot of time because of this and added a few kilometers to our already long day.

River before the main steps leading up to the city.

Camino Day 25: Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo – The Land of Earthly Pleasures

Triple P and I started our hike today somewhere ar around 7h20 (I don’t quite remember). We had breakfast with the French cyclist before finally heading on our way. I informed Triple P that I was taking it easy today, walking only 24 km. I didn’t want to force him to stick to my itinerary for I knew he had other plans. He started his Camino a full week after I did! I can’t believe we are in the same spot now, granted he’s accustomed to walking further than I everyday. He informed me that he needed to be in Santiago by the 30th. I told him I planned on arriving the 30 in Santiago so he could finally slow down. I also told him he was welcome to join me until then, but I didn’t want to force him to walk with me.

While we were walking we talked a bit. I’m already noticing that the conversation is flowing more with him.

Camino Day 24: Manajrin to Ponferrada – El Monte Irago

Last night there was an electrical storm; I’m not sure at what time, but it woke everyone up. The roof started leaking on Count Chocula, the 18 year old German kid, and he asked if someone would move and make space for him because he was getting wet and could no longer sleep. Now, he’s a nice kid, albeit a bit of a know it all, but I’m confident the Italians didn’t like him much. It was pretty evident when they all ignored his plead. I had half a bed but I called him over and shared my space. I slept on the crack between two mattresses the rest of the night but I didn’t mind so much. The worst part was afterward I didn’t sleep well because I had to pee. I didn’t want to get up and go because 1. It was pitch dark and we were upstairs 2. It was raining 3. There were wolves. Yes, wolves. We could hear them howling in the night night the Italians started howling in the cabin.

At about 7h10 I woke up.  I was the first person out of bed, but I really needed to relieve myself. While  outside I saw creepy old man and the nice lady. I thought about saying hello, but considering I hadn’t showered or brushed my teeth and I wanted to avoid creepy old man, I went back inside the cabin to hide.

Camino Day 17: Carrión de los Condes to Terradillo de los Templarios – The Land of Adobe

Today the dynamic duo invited me to walk with them again, but I turned them down. They were planning on leaving at 5h (or maybe even earlier) to do a nocturnal hike. When I woke up at 6h, they were still around but almost ready to go. I told them to go ahead without me. We agreed to meet at Terradillo de los Templarios in the municipal hostel.

I took my time getting ready and left at around 6h45 when a few others were on their way out. I was mentally prepared for the day ahead of me; actually, I wanted to walk it alone knowing it’d be the most mentally challenging portion of the Camino. I wanted no distractions.

Camino Day 16: Boadillo del Camino to Carrión de los Condes – Two Toned Landscape

The dynamic duo and I set off at around 6h20 today. I’m still not sure why they wanted to leave so early since we weren’t walking that far.

Daily sunrise picture. It's how I keep track of my photos day by day

Today we had the best sunrise I’ve seen on the Camino.

On the way to Fromista we walked along a canal. The Italian is an environmental engineer so we both enjoyed the scenery.

Canal as you arrive to Fromista

We made it to Fromista rather early and I was thinking of separating from them and having breakfast; although, it was only 7h30 so it was a bit early. I very much enjoyed walking with them but the night before at dinner I saw the Englishman and the Mexican I walked with leaving Burgos (I hadn’t seen them since halfway to Hontanas and I was you curious what happened to them). They told me that from Fromista they were splitting up. The Mexican was taking a train to further along the Camino due to time restrictions while the Englishman was heading north to do a piece of the Northern route (he already had done the French way). They told me they would have breakfast in Fromista and I wanted another chance to see them.

However, I wasn’t able to. Who knows, maybe our paths will cross again someday.

I enjoyed walking the with dynamic duo. They didn’t walk too fast, they were cool with taking pictures, they liked to visit things along the way, and we had great conversation.

Sheep crossing after Fromista

Unfortunately, I can’t say that today’s scenery was exciting.I am thankful, however, that I had good company. I missed talking to someone, and at no point in time did I want to be alone. We spent the majority of the day walking by lots of yellow fields and on a trail next to the road. Every thing was flat and straight; this portion of the camino is notorious for its lack of beauty and interest.

A Romanesque church we stopped at. It was really beautiful. A lot larger than the one in Fromista but not as well maintained.

My new friend.

Carrión de los Condes was another story. It is a quiet and charming village. There were three municipal hostels to choose from, and while I think they were all run by nuns, the Albergue de Santa Maria was the best. The nuns were so nice, and you could tell that they enjoyed helping pilgrims.

We went to lunch (me, the dynamic duo, an Aussie, a German “nurse,” an Italian violinist, and a Hungarian). I walked around the town a bit. I also bought a new hat because I lost mine yesterday. I have no idea when or where I lost it; I realized it when I was about to go to Fromista to visit the church. I had it in a side pocket and it must have fallen out. Since I hardly used my hat on the Camino, I refused to spend a lot of money on a replacement. I found a perfect straw cowboy hat with blue trim for €2.50. I look a bit ridiculous in it, but it’s the Camino.

The albergue had a family dinner planned for thr pilgrims. The nuns would provide the first course, and one pilgrim cooked a lentil soup for everyone as the second course and we all chipped in money.

Before dinner I went to mass (for the first time since Pamplona and more times than I have been in the past year). The Camino is a physical, mental, and spiritual journey and up until today I feel I have been neglecting the last one. Anyway, at the end of the mass they had a pilgrim blessing. But even before that, the head nun of my albergue spoke.

She and the other nuns had a present for each pilgrim. She told us it was small made of paper so it wouldn’t weigh much. It was a colored star of David. The nuns colored and cut each one with pilgrims in mind. It symbolizes hope, something we can never give up on the Camino or in life.

She told us that no matter what, we would never be alone on the Camino. That they were all praying for us, and that if we needed help we just have to ask. They told us that even in the dark, hope will guide us; hope will be our light.

Her speech was simple and beautiful. One of those things I knew but once I heard it spoken out loud I was flooded with emotion. I started to cry, and I’m still not sure why. I fought the tears starting to run down my face because I don’t like people staring at me when I cry, and I knew that if I couldn’t get my emotions immediately under control I’d be past the point of no return, unable to close the flood gates. When she spoke I was front and center so I’m sure she could see and feel my emotions building up. I know it may sound strange, but I felt this incredible energy from her. I went to her line for the blessing instead of the priest. She blessed me and held my face in her hands. She transferred this energy and life to me, maybe hope. I wanted to hug her. I wanted to hug her and cry and cry, and maybe I would have if I were in the back of the line. It is really impossible to explain the connection I felt towards her. I can’t help but feel she felt it too, or maybe she could feel what I felt. When she spoke her speech and gave her blessing I felt she could see into my soul, feel what I was feeling, and it was so overwhelming I couldn’t bare to look her in the eyes for fear of losing complete control. She’s a wonderful lady and incredibly special. I will never forget her peaceful regard, her kindness and gentleness as she held my face in her delicate hands.

Being on the verge of an emotional breakdown really works up an appetite. Dinner was tasty and a nice way to meet other pilgrims. We all helped clean up afterward and soon it was lights out.

Tomorrow I face the most mentally challenging trek (17 km of nothing). I will tackle it alone since the dynamic duo wants to do a nocturnal hike tomorrow, weather permitting.

Day 16: 25.5 km
To Santiago de Compostela: 391 km

Camino Day 15: Hontanas to Boadillo del Camino – The Doorway of Tierra de Campos

In my room last night was a group of Italians I think I’ve seen but never spoken to. I casually asked them what time they’d be waking up as to not be the crazy early riser. Imagine my face when they told me they were setting the alarm for 3h and leaving at 4h to walk under the stars. I forgot there was a meteor shower scheduled (they didn’t tell me that either, simply that they wanted to try a nocturnal hike) or I may have been crazy enough to accept their proposal. I didn’t though, even after they tried to convince me to join.

In the end I was out the door by 6h30. It was a bit dark outside still, which I really dislike. Luckily, the bearded Spaniard loaned me his frontal light for the rest of my Camino. I think since the sun is rising later it may come in handy. I saw frontal lights on various packing lists, but I never considered it essential.

Camino Day 14: Burgos to Hontanas – The Desolation of a White and Solitary Land

So today was an interesting day. I felt like I was starting the Camino all over again. I was nervous and excited for the next stage. Since I’ve spent the first half of the Camino in a group setting, I decided to do the second half alone. Well, not alone, just independently because I think it will change my perspective of the Camino and will provide me more personal reflection time.

I want to be friendly and open to meeting every new face I see; yet, I don’t want to be limited to one circle of pilgrims. I want to spend most days walking alone at my own pace so I can stop and enjoy the Camino as I wish. Plus, there is something about walking the most mentally challenging part of the Camino alone with my thoughts. I brought no music or headphones on the Camino. Being alone in the desolate desert landscape appeals to me. We’ll see how that works out. Maybe in a few days time I’ll be craving the stability and security of a wonderful group of people. However, I highly doubt I will find another group of pilgrims as wonderful and dynamic as my first.